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Underfloor heating in a Romanian villa: how it works, what it costs to run, and what to check

Water or electric, why it suits a heat pump, which floor finishes work, zoning, daily use and maintenance. Plus 8 questions for the developer.

8 min full read · 30 sec short versionFrom: Underfloor heating in a villa in Romania: water or electric, with a heat pump, floor finishes, zones and upkeep22.10.2026
The short versionSwipe →
1:1Direct electric

Electric underfloor heating turns each kWh of electricity into one kWh of heat. Fine for a bathroom, less so for a whole house.

4.5Seasonal efficiency, best case

A heat pump works best with lukewarm water, which is exactly what underfloor heating needs. In our illustration: about 1,600 kWh of electricity for 7,200 kWh of heat.

0.15Max resistance of the floor finish

Manufacturers commonly cite 0.15 m²K/W as the maximum thermal resistance of a floor covering on underfloor heating. Tiles and stone are best.

Underfloor heating in Romania: the short answer

Underfloor heating warms a room from the floor up, through pipes with warm water or electric cables laid under the floor finish. In a new, well-insulated villa it is one of the most comfortable ways to heat: no radiators on the walls, even warmth, and warm floors during a Bucharest winter.

There are two families. Water-based (hydronic) systems circulate water from a heat source, usually a heat pump or a gas boiler, through pipes in the screed. Electric systems use heating cables, mats or films. Water-based systems cost more to install and less to run. Electric systems are cheaper to install but turn each kWh of electricity into only one kWh of heat.

In plain words: underfloor heating and a heat pump are a natural pair, because the floor needs only lukewarm water. Electric underfloor heating makes sense in a bathroom, not usually as the heating for a whole villa.

Water or electric: side by side

Water-based (hydronic) Electric
How it heats Warm water from a heat pump or boiler through pipes in the screed Cables, mats or films under the finish
Installation More work: pipes, manifold, screed, connection to the heat source Simpler and thinner, especially in renovations
Running cost Depends on the heat source; with a heat pump, well below direct electric Every kWh of heat costs a full kWh of electricity
Warm-up Slow, because the screed has thermal mass Faster, especially thin systems under tiles
Typical use Whole house Bathrooms, small areas, extra comfort
Repairs Pipes rarely fail if laid correctly; the manifold and heat source need service Few moving parts; a damaged cable means lifting the floor

Why a heat pump likes underfloor heating

A heat pump's efficiency depends on how hot it has to make the water. The cooler the water it supplies, the more heat it produces for each kWh of electricity. Underfloor heating spreads heat across the whole floor area, so it can work with lukewarm water, while radiators need hotter water to give the same heat from a smaller surface.

That is why the same heat pump can perform very differently in two houses. In our comparison of heat pumps and gas, we used a seasonal efficiency (SCOP) of 3.5 for an ordinary case and 4.5 for the best case, and the best case is typical with underfloor heating.

An illustration in kWh. Take the assumption from that article: a new, insulated 180 m² villa that needs about 7,200 kWh of heat a year.

System Electricity needed for 7,200 kWh of heat
Direct electric underfloor heating about 7,200 kWh
Heat pump, SCOP 3.5 about 2,060 kWh
Heat pump, SCOP 4.5 about 1,600 kWh

Multiply by your electricity tariff to get the bill. The calculation covers space heating only and is for illustration. If the house has solar panels, part of that electricity comes from the roof, though winter output is low exactly when demand is highest. More in our guide to solar panels for a villa.

Floor finishes: what works on a heated floor

Every floor finish slows heat on its way into the room. The measure is thermal resistance, R, calculated as the thickness of the material divided by its thermal conductivity. Manufacturers commonly give 0.15 m²K/W as the maximum for the floor covering. The lower the value, the better.

Finish On underfloor heating
Ceramic tiles, porcelain, natural stone The best conductors; ideal
Engineered wood (multilayer parquet) Works well if thin and dense, and approved by the manufacturer for underfloor heating; watch the maximum surface temperature
Solid wood Possible, but more sensitive to drying and movement; ask the manufacturer
Laminate Most products are suitable; check the manufacturer's approval and the underlay
Vinyl Often limited to a lower floor surface temperature; Uponor, for example, cites 27°C
Carpet and thick rugs Insulate the floor; keep underlay and carpet thin

Two rules apply to every finish. First, follow the manufacturer's maximum floor temperature. Second, a screed over underfloor heating must be dry before the floor is laid. Laying wood or vinyl on a damp screed is one of the classic first-year problems. If it happens, it is a matter for the warranty, covered in our guide to new home warranty and defects.

Underfloor heating and a heat pump are a natural pair, because the floor needs only lukewarm water.

Zoning: one thermostat per room, or one for the house?

A water-based system is fed from a manifold, usually one per floor, with a loop for each room. Each loop can have its own actuator and thermostat. That gives you zones: a cooler bedroom, a warmer bathroom, a living room that follows your schedule.

What to know about zones:

  • More zones, more control, but also more components and a slightly more complex setup.
  • Underfloor heating reacts slowly. It is best run on steady settings, with small night setbacks, rather than switched on and off. A smart thermostat helps, but it cannot make the screed heat up in five minutes.
  • Balancing matters. Each loop needs the right flow, or some rooms will always be colder than others. Ask for the commissioning record.
  • Bathrooms often get a small electric mat in addition, or a towel radiator, for comfort outside the heating season.

Running it day to day

  • First heat-up: a new screed is heated gradually, according to the system manufacturer's procedure. Ask the developer whether it was done and recorded.
  • Steady temperature: set it and leave it. Large swings waste energy and slow comfort.
  • Furniture: large items without legs, thick rugs and built-in furniture over heated floor reduce output and can overheat finishes. Plan them where the loops are not, if possible.
  • Cooling: some reversible heat pumps can send cool water through the same pipes in summer. It needs controls that keep the floor above the dew point, otherwise condensation can form. Ask whether your system is designed for it before using it that way.

Maintenance over the years

Item Water-based Electric
Heat source Annual service of the heat pump or boiler None
System pressure and leaks Check the pressure gauge; look at the manifold for drips Not applicable
Manifold and actuators Check that every loop opens and closes Check thermostats and floor sensors
Water quality Follow the installer's advice on flushing and inhibitors Not applicable
Documents Keep the loop plan, so nobody drills into a pipe Keep the cable plan for the same reason

We include these in the yearly plan in our villa upkeep costs guide.

Checklist: 8 questions to ask the developer

  1. Is the system water-based or electric, and in which rooms?
  2. What is the heat source, and what flow temperature was it designed for?
  3. Is there one manifold per floor, and a thermostat per room?
  4. Was the system pressure-tested before the screed was poured? Ask for the record.
  5. Was the first heat-up of the screed done and recorded before the floor was laid?
  6. Which floor finishes are approved for this system, and what is the maximum floor temperature?
  7. Where is the loop plan, and is it part of the building's technical book (cartea tehnică)?
  8. Can the system cool in summer, and if so, how is condensation prevented?

For the record, the villas of Compass on the Lake come with underfloor heating. The questions above apply to them as to any other project.

Frequently asked questions

Is underfloor heating worth it in Romania?

In a new, well-insulated house, it is one of the most comfortable options, and with a heat pump it is also efficient to run. In a poorly insulated house, any system is expensive, and insulation matters more than the choice of emitters.

Is electric underfloor heating expensive to run?

It turns each kWh of electricity into one kWh of heat. A heat pump with a seasonal efficiency of 3.5 to 4.5 needs roughly 22% to 29% of that electricity for the same heat. Electric systems make the most sense in small areas such as bathrooms.

Can I put parquet on underfloor heating?

Yes, if the product is approved for underfloor heating and the total thermal resistance of the finish stays low; manufacturers commonly cite 0.15 m²K/W as the maximum. Thin, dense engineered wood performs better than thick solid boards. The screed must be dry before laying.

Does underfloor heating need maintenance?

Not much. A water-based system needs an annual service of the heat source, a look at the pressure and the manifold, and the installer's water treatment. An electric system needs almost nothing, but keep the cable plan.

Can underfloor heating also cool the house?

Some systems with a reversible heat pump can. It requires controls that keep the floor above the dew point to avoid condensation, and it gives gentle cooling rather than the effect of air conditioning.

The bottom line

Underfloor heating is a comfort system first. Its running cost depends on the heat source and on the insulation of the house, more than on the pipes. With a heat pump, in a tight house, it works at its best.

If you are comparing villas in Romania, with us or anywhere else, book a 30-minute call with me. We will go through the heating design together, from the heat source to the floor finish. And if you are planning the interior, see our guide to furnishing a villa.

Moti Azulay, Compass Group Romania

Sources: Uponor: best floor coverings for underfloor heating · Infrarot-Fussboden FAQ: thermal resistance of floor coverings, R = d/λ, maximum 0.15 m²K/W · Compass Group: Heating a villa, heat pump vs gas (assumptions and SCOP values)

This article is for general information only and is not engineering or financial advice. The figures are illustrations, correct as of 22 October 2026. For a specific house, rely on a qualified heating engineer and the manufacturers' instructions.

Now you know more.

✓ water-based versus electric systems✓ why a heat pump suits underfloor heating✓ which floor finishes work✓ how to zone and maintain the system
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This article is general information, not legal, tax or financial advice. Consult local professionals before any transaction.